Identify Your Coleman
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Theory of Operation
Rebuild Single Mantle
Rebuild Double Mantle
Check Valve Removal
Rebuilding a Single Mantle Lantern - Dissassembly
Part One: Disassembly Procedures.
Go get yourself a cup of coffee or a glass of soda. This chapter is going to be very graphics heavy. Words are one thing but a picture says a thousand words. At the end of the chapter will be a link for a "text only" version, one you can print off and take to your work bench with you. But for the first time through I think pictures are important.
You'll notice that the color of our lantern changes on occasion. This is because where single and double mantle lanterns are identical, I use the same pictures to save server space. So if you see our red 200A turn to nickel plated 220D or a green 220E, you'll know why.
The lantern I'm showing you is a 1962 Coleman 200A lantern that now belongs to Dave Herrington of Cheyenne, Wyoming. The 200A is the standard single-mantle lantern. There are a few differences in the 242 and 243 series lanterns; very few differences for the 200 and 202 models. Remember if you get stuck somewhere or something just doesn't look the same as I said it would, you know where to get help from!
Before you start you should remove all of the fuel out of the lantern. Put this old fuel in an approved container that you don't need and dispose of it properly. You can find a hazardous waste recycling facility in your telephone book under public health.
Recommended Tools and Supplies List.
The un-touched lantern is shown above in figure 1A. First thing we need to do is to remove the lantern's bail, ventilator and globe. Pull the ends of the bail away from the ventilator and remove. Then unscrew the ball nut at the very top of the lantern. Pull the ventilator up and off, then pull out the glass globe. Set these 4 pieces aside and your lantern should now look like 1B. Next to come off is the frame.
In the center of the frame bottom is a nut. If you have an old lantern it will be a standard 7/16" nut. If your lantern is a little newer you'll have a hollow "Pal Nut" which is also 7/16". Take your 7/16" end wrench and remove this nut (Fig 2A). This is all that holds the frame down on the lantern so you can now gently pull the frame assembly up and off of the rest of the lantern (Fig 2B). Set the lantern aside as we're going to disassemble the frame right now.
Turn the frame upside-down where you can see the point where the burner tube goes into the frame top. You'll note a nut there, on the burner tube. You may want to give the nut a shot of lubricant and let it sit for a minute as it can, on occasion, be a real bear to get off. The nut is 5/8" but I have seen more than one that a 5/8" wrench won't fit on...a good old Crescent wrench does the trick. Take your wrench and carefully (so not to round it) loosen the nut (Fig 3A). That nut locks the burner tube in place, and the burner tube is also screwed into the "U" tube. Your wrench will loosen one of them...probably the nut. Continue to unscrew this "assembly" until the burner tube comes out of the frame. (Fig 3B) Set the burner tube (and burner cap & screen) aside.
The parts on top of the frame are now free so turn it right-side up. You'll be able to see the ventilator bracket being held on by the "U" tube (Fig 4A). Wiggle off the "U" tube and remove the bracket. Inside of the frame you'll now see the venturi. This part pulls right out but may be stuck due to soot; a gentle spin with pliers may be required. The frame is now completely disassembled (Fig 4B). Set all the parts aside and let's get back to the rest of the lantern.
Now we can prep the valve for removal. Take a 7/16" wrench and remove the generator nut (Fig 5A). You'll notice in the picture that the tip cleaner stem is in the "up" position. This makes removal of the generator a bit easier as the eccentric block is up and will release the stem. Unscrew the generator nut and remove it, along with the generator. Set them aside. Hopefully you will see two washers still setting on the valve assembly! Something about men and washers...these two keep the frame setting correctly on the valve and help keep undo pressure off the frame rest. In other words, they are necessary. If you don't have two take your valve down to the hardware store (later) and find washers to fit! Fig 5B).
Now we can remove the frame rest and the valve wheel. Gently lift and push the frame rest forward towards the valve wheel. Without scratching the fount get the front edge past the valve nut and lift it up. (Fig 6A) It may require a gentle squeeze the sides of the frame rest to get it to this point. Once it has cleared the valve stem then continue to lift but pull it back and off of the tip cleaner stem. It may help if you turn the tip cleaner stem to a horizontal position. Set it aside. Now take a thin flat-tip screwdriver and remove the valve wheel, screw and direction disc and set them aside. Your bare fount and valve should look like Fig 6B.
Time to remove the valve. You really need to be careful with this step as it is real easy to bend the top of the fount. What you're going to do here is to unscrew the fount from the valve, which may seem rather backwards. Take the fount over to a bench vice and put it in upside-down (Fig 7A). You don't need to tighten the jaws down on the valve-just remove all of the slop between the jaws and valve. Now grab the fount firmly with your hands and very gently and very squarely start to unscrew it. You must turn on a perfect axis with the valve or you'll tweak the top of the fount! It will take a bit of pressure at first to free the valve. Once it loosens up, remove it all from the vice and try to unscrew the valve with your hands. If you can't return it to the vice and loosen some more. When the threads are finally free you'll be able to pull the entire valve assembly out of the fount (Fig 7B).
Take the valve assembly and turn it upside down in your hand. With a 5/16" end wrench loosen the Fuel & Air Tube (Fig 8A). Unscrew the tube completely and pull it away from the valve. Inside you'll see a rod and a spring (Fig 8B). Set the tube, rod and spring aside.
Next comes the valve stem. Temporarily install the valve wheel and turn the valve all the way "open" as in a maximum burn position. Once you have it open take a 1/2" end wrench and back the valve nut off (Fig 9A). Back the valve and the valve nut all the way off-a little pressure may be required to complete the final pulling of the packing out of the valve so don't be afraid to "open" the valve all the way. Once the valve stem is out it should all look like Fig 9B.
When you get the stem out you need to remove the nut. The nut will come off backwards, or, off the end where the valve wheel goes. Many times there is a lot of crud at the end of the valve stem so take a wire brush and some carburetor cleaner and get it off. Once clean the valve nut should come right off. With the valve nut will come the valve stem packing. There is a small brass o-ring at the end of the packing. This ring may come out with the packing or it may stay on the valve stem. Either way, pull it off or out. The valve stem, brass ring and valve stem nut should look like Figure 10.
One thing I need to note here: The 242 and 243 series lanterns have valve wheels that do not come off. If you're working on a valve stem like that, the procedure above is a little different. If you look closely at Fig 10 you'll see a small snap-ring still on the valve stem. You'll have to pry it open, and then slide it over the conical end of the stem. Then the o-ring and valve stem nut need to come off the front end too. The snap ring does not need to be removed on valve stem with removable wheels.
Last thing to do is pull the few remaining parts of the fount off. Removing the pump is real easy-take off the pump retaining screws (if old enough) or the pump clip as shown in Fig 11A. Grab the pump and give it a good pull up to remove from the fount. Often times this plunger's cap is stuck to the fount this old cruddy gas and oil and dirt. So, holding the fount firmly, pull straight out on pretty hard to snap it free. If you do this once or twice and it won't give, which happens, carefully take a screwdriver and using a rag and the fount for leverage pry all around the cap until it comes free. Once you have the pump out you'll see the air stem in the cylinder. Take a pair of pliers and unscrew it from the check valve and pull it out. Note in Figure 11B that the air stem is also red-this, of course, indicates that the air stem has been in this lantern since 1962 and probably so has the check valve. Anyway, set the pump, pump clip/screws and the air stem aside. Take some "break free" spray, or carburetor cleaner, and shoot a couple of squirts down inside the pump plunger cylinder. Let this soak for about 1/2 hour or more before proceeding.
Okay, now comes the hardest part, the check valve. Our red lantern is about to become nickel plated...don't worry about it, removal of the check valve is the same for our 200A and the shown 220D. You'll need to take your time and be very careful to get it out of your lantern. And I will tell you-sometimes it doesn't matter how careful you are, the check valve will strip out. A discussion about this little piece first.
The check valve is a small piece of brass that sits at the very bottom of the pump plunger cylinder. It screws into the fount and over the years gets locked down there. It is installed tightly in the first place but dirt, oil and some gas gets into the threads over time and it doesn't usually like to come out. And, because it is brass, the slot in the top will strip out real easily. I am working with a machinist to make a reasonably priced check valve removal tool but I'm having trouble with the easy-out sizes.
The following procedure will give you the best chance of success with a large flathead screwdriver. But I want you to know that it still may not work. Should you strip out the check valve you can take it to a machinist to have it removed with an easy-out our you can send the fount to me and I will remove it for you, at no charge, but you'll need to pay for round-trip shipping. But first let's try and get it out with a screwdriver.
If you look down inside of the pump plunger cylinder you'll see the check valve down there (Fig 12A). You'll see that the top of it is slotted. The "perfect" screwdriver for this job probably doesn't exist. This would have a blade width of 1/2" and a blade thickness of 5/16". Finding a screwdriver that thick would be real tough. So I recommend you find the thickest one you can. And, if possible, take a file or a grinding wheel to make it 1/2 wide. If the blade is too wide it will hit the sides of the fount and won't go into the check valve slot. Your intent here is to get a good bite in this slot and you may have to modify a screwdriver to achieve it.
Once you have a screwdriver that will work you'll need to have someone hold the fount for you (Fig 12B). You'll also need to attach either a wrench or vice grips to the screwdriver so you will have some torque. Do not apply any force to the screwdriver until it is perfectly centered in the cylinder! If it is off-center the blade tip will not be square to the bottom of the slot and it will strip it out.
With one hand hold the screwdriver handle...apply a real good bit of downward force while making darn sure the handle is centered in the cylinder. Then use the wrench or vice grip to unscrew the check valve. The result will come quickly...it will either "pop" and come loose or it will strip the slot out. All I can say is "good luck" here...
Next we're going to disassemble the fuel cap (or filler cap). First thing to do is to make sure it comes off. If you have a lantern than has been sitting for many years the cap may be frozen to the fount. To ensure that the old gasket hasn't connected itself to the fount just take the cap off. Then put it back on and tighten it as much as you can with your fingers. Tightening the cap will lock the insert and gasket down on the fount so you can get the screw out. With a flat-tip screwdriver try and unscrew the center screw (Fig 13A). If something seems to be "slipping" it means that the cap is too loose...tighten it some more. If you can't tighten further with your fingers you can gently apply a pair of pliers to get it real tight. When the screw decides to let go you will feel a small "snap." Remove the screw and then take the cap off again. This time, the insert will be left on the fount (Fig 13B). It should pull right off with your hand but may need a little help...lightly tap on it to remove if necessary. Set your 3-piece fuel cap aside.
So here it is, completely disassembled and ready for cleaning & repair.
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