Identify Your Coleman
What is this part??
Theory of Operation
Rebuild Single Mantle
Rebuild Double Mantle
Check Valve Removal
Rebuilding a Single Mantle Lantern - Reassembly
Part Three: Re-Assembly Procedures
Alright, time to get the lantern running again. First thing we need to do is to get the valve all back together so we can install it in the fount and do some pressure testing. Get the valve stem, the brass o-ring, the valve stem nut and your new packing.
The first piece that will go on the valve stem is that brass o-ring. If you look at it carefully you'll note that one side is flat and the other is concave. The concave side goes on first as it fits up against that snap-ring on the stem. Following the o-ring is your new packing, and then the valve stem nut. Refer to Figure 28 to see the sequence.
Now take your completed valve stem and insert the conical tip into the valve housing (Fig 29A). With your valve wheel, screw it in until it stops in the "off" position. Then take your 1/2" end wrench and tighten on the valve stem nut about 2 turns. We're going to snug it up later to stop leaks so 2 turns is sufficient. Next grab your fuel & air tube along with its spring and rod. Place the spring over the thin end of the rod and then place the rod down inside the tube at the big end (Fig 29B). With your thumb make sure the rod springs up and down inside the tube without binding. Then screw the tube into the bottom of the valve and snug it up with your 5/16" wrench.
Time to re-install the valve into the fount. Place the fuel & air tube down inside the fount's top hole (Fig 30A) and seat it. Spin the valve around carefully so that it does not cross-thread into the fount. Figure 30B shows what the valve will look like when properly installed. To do this, hand-tighten the valve in as much as you can with reasonable pressure. This point should occur just before the valve stem gets to the point where it will ultimately set. If you're unable to get the valve stem to a point halfway between the filler hole and the pump cylinder with your bare hand (you probably won't) then you'll need to return to the bench vise.
You'll need to really be careful this time...it is much easier to bend the fount installing a valve than it was to remove it. Like before, snuggle up to the fount and use both hands. Making darn sure your torque is on a perfect axis with the valve start applying pressure to screw the fount down on the valve. Only turn the fount about 15-20 degrees at a time and then re-position your body and hands so you don't go awry on the angle. When it is close pull it out and look at it at eye-level. The valve stem should be either right over the decal or centered with the filler hole on the left and the pump cylinder on the right, whichever looks best (usually they are the same). Note that Canadian lanterns and many 242* models are reversed with the filler hole on the right.
Okay, if you bent the fount, don't sweat too much. Using the vice again apply pressure to the fount opposite of the direction of the bend. It will straighten out for you.
You'll notice we did not apply white silicon tape nor did we put a dab of Loc-Tite on the threads. The silicon tape won't work at all. If you want to you can use Loc-Tite like the factory did but you need to know that this new stuff, in my opinion, is much stronger than what Coleman used 30 and more years ago. I over tightened a valve about 1/4" once and had used Loc-Tite on it. I sheared off the valve trying to return it just that little bit. Once it gets tight and dries it can be impossible to loosen or remove. If you have the valve in correctly Loc-Tite is not required.
Time to finish up the fount now. Get your new check valve & stem and the fuel cap pieces.
Take the air stem out of the check valve. Turn the fount on its side so the plunger hole is facing up (Fig 31A). Drop the check valve down into the cylinder and shake it a bit so it sits correctly at the bottom. Take your large flathead screwdriver and tighten the check valve down. Get it snug and then just a bit more. Someday you may need to remove it again so don't go nuts! Once the check valve is in screw in the air stem, just enough where it will stay in place for you (Fig 31B).
Now get your fuel cap pieces. If you decided to use a "new" style fuel cap you can skip this. Take the insert with the new gasket and rest it on the fount's filler hole (Fig 32A). Now take the cap and screw it down, just to a point where it barely gets snug. Then take the center screw and install it with your fingers...it should go in a couple of turns easily. Now tighten the cap down real good and take a screwdriver to the center screw to snug it down (Fig 32B).
Now take your pump plunger out of your bowl of motor oil. Get a rag and wipe off the excess oil from the pump cup end (Fig 33A). If the upper end of the plunger (the part you'll be able to see on the fount) is dirty take some carburetor cleaner and a stiff brush to clean these parts off. The inside of the plunger cap may have a bunch of dirt in it too and a Q-tip works well to remove it. With compressed air, or with your lips, blow through the plunger from the top. This will get the excess oil out of the hollow plunger stem. We do not want this oil there as it will get into the check valve and goof things up. Now return the pump cup to its regular shape-you'll note it is a litter bigger in diameter now. Approaching it from the side, slip it into the cylinder and over the air stem (Fig 33B). Use a fingernail if you need to when installing the pump cup back into the fount as it may want to fold on you.
Push the pump plunger down into cylinder a bit. Now you need to set the cap down onto the fount. When you do this ensure you have the holes lined up (Fig 34A) and that the oil hole is facing up. If it goes on but a little crooked you can either take it off and start over or gently grab it with pliers and twist. You may have to tap on it to get it to snug down completely. Now re-install your screws or the pump clip (Fig 34B). It will be a tight fit and a screwdriver or pliers will make it easier. Ensure both sides of the clip are securely inside the holes of the cap and the fount. Now test it...ensure it gives you some resistance. If it does then lock your air stem down (fully clockwise).
Time to test the valve and set the final pressure on the new valve stem packing. This part is pretty easy. Fill the fount about 1/4 full of clean fuel. Tighten the filler cap and then unlock the pump plunger. Pump it 3-5 strokes, slowly. You will probably see fuel seeping from the end of the valve stem nut. Tighten the nut (1/2" wrench) until it stops. Dry off the leaked fuel and then give it another 5 pumps. Repeat these steps until you can fully pressurize (50+ pumps) and no fuel leaks from the valve stem nut. Once you're there place a rag over the valve's top hole and slide the valve stem wheel on. Open the valve about 1/2 turn to ensure you have fuel coming out (you'll hear it) and that the valve stem turns easily. Passing both steps, shut the valve off again and completely dry all around and over the valve. Pump more if you like now...but "inspect" your valve for 20 minutes or so just to make sure there are no leaks. When the lantern is together is not the time to discover a leak!
Okay, now get the frame rest and re-install it over the valve and onto the fount. Place the tip cleaner stem in a horizontal position and insert it into the hole in the frame rest (Fig 35A). Squeeze if you have to, but push the rest forward and install it over the valve stem, then set it down on the fount. Take your two washers and set them down on the two "posts" on the valve (Fig 35B).
Now get your generator nut and the new generator-is time to install them.
Slide the generator nut over the small end of the generator. At the other end, gently pull out the stem so you can get it in your fingers. On the lantern, turn the tip cleaner stem to the "up" position so the eccentric block's small hole is exposed (Fig 36A). Insert the end of the generator stem into the hole and turn the tip cleaner stem down. This will lock the stem into the hole during the rest of the install process (Fig 36B).
Now carefully set the generator housing down on the valve (DO NOT FORCE IT!) and the set the generator nut down. Tighten with your fingers and ensure your generator is straight up and down (Fig 37). Snug the generator nut down real well with your 7/16" wrench.
Set the fount aside; next we have to put the frame back together.
Set your frame down in front of you and grab the "U" tube, the venturi and the ventilator bracket. First, take the venturi and place it in the off-set hole in the frame top (Fig 38A), small end first (it won't fit the other way). Then take the ventilator bracket as shown in Fig 38B and place it over the center hole in the frame top. With these two pieces in place we can put on the "U" tube. Get your "U" tube and look at it...one end has threads while the other does not. The threaded end goes to the center hole for the burner tube to screw into.
Navigate the "U" tube over the venturi and under/around the ventilator bracket until it looks like Fig 39A. Hold the "U" tube gently in place and grab your burner tube. From underneath, insert the threaded end of the burner tube up into the "U" tube and screw it in (Fig 39B). Hand-tighten until it gets snug.
Figure 40A shows what the frame should look like from the bottom. More importantly right now is Fig 40B. Note how the ventilator bracket is in-line with the "U" tube. Once you have the bracket positioned like this take your 5/8" wrench and tighten up the nut on the burner tube to secure the entire assembly. The frame is now ready to be placed on the valve and frame rest.
Now you can take your frame and set it on the lantern. Insert the tip of the generator in the smaller of the two holes in the bottom of the frame. Once you get the frame lowered to a point where it almost meets the frame rest and valve, look at the tip of the generator. It has to go into that small hole in the air intake tube and you'll need to guide it in (Fig 41A). The frame should sit down nice and square on the valve's washers and the frame rest. Now look at the front of the frame rest and ensure the valve stem is centered in the hole and slot for it. Also look at the hole around the generator. Take your frame nut or Pal Nut and screw it onto the center post (Fig 41B).
Tighten with a 7/16" wrench but ensure the frame hole for the generator is centered and the frame rest is centered on the valve stem. The finished product should look like figure 42.
Take your valve wheel now and insert it onto the valve stem. Take the direction disc and screw and insert them too. Spin the direction disc until it is in the correct "off" position and then tighten the screw down. You'll need to hold the direction disc in place with your finger or thumb as it will want to be turned by the screw. Once it is tight and the wheel is no longer sloppy on the stem it is time for another test.
You should still have plenty of pressure in the lantern and your tip cleaner stem should be facing down. Go ahead and crack the valve open about 1/2 turn and listen. At first you should just hear air coming out of the burner tube. But within a few seconds it should start "spitting" at you. When it does, shut of the valve. Congratulations, you have fuel coming out of the fount and being ejected out the top of the generator.
Now you can install your mantle and burn it. When they're cooled a bit and ashen fire it up! Remember that "Open 1/4 turn to light" is too much so just open the valve enough to where you can hear the spitting and then light it. It is quite possible that you'll have a little dirt or something in the lines so go ahead and spin your tip cleaner handle a few times to clean the tip of the generator. The lantern should calm right down and burn "okay." Once the burn is steady your generator is sufficiently hot and you can open the valve all the way up. Bingo! A bright lantern. (Fig 43)
Now put your globe in and install the ventilator. Snug down the ball nut so it just hits the ventilator...never tighter. That is how the hole in the top gets enlarged as the ventilator expands when it gets hot and it cracks the enamel.
Dave's lantern is shown in the above before and after pictures. Not too difficult of an operation and we now have a lantern that looks good and will work great for years to come.
I hope this came of some assistance to you and I welcome all input... good, bad and indifferent. I'd like to know that it helped you but I'd also like to know if I have typeOs or if something I wrote just doesn't make sense to you. In my mind it all does but I've done this a million times...to a first time fixer it may be Greek in nature, I'm not sure. So please feel free to send me an email, I'd love to hear from you.