Identify Your Coleman
What is this part??
Theory of Operation
Rebuild Single Mantle
Rebuild Double Mantle
Check Valve Removal
Single Mantle Lantern Rebuild Instructions
Before you start you should remove all of the fuel out of the lantern. Put this old fuel in an approved container that you don't need and dispose of it properly. You can find a hazardous waste recycling facility in your telephone book under public health.
Recommended Tools and Supplies List.
1. Remove the bail, ventilator and globe: pull the ends of the bail away from the ventilator and remove. Then unscrew the ball nut at the very top of the lantern. Pull the ventilator up and off, then pull out the glass globe. Set these 4 pieces aside.
2. In the center of the frame bottom is a nut. Take your 7/16" end wrench and remove this nut. This is all that holds the frame down on the lantern so you can now gently pull the frame assembly up and off of the rest of the lantern.
3. Turn the frame upside-down where you can see the point where the burner tube goes into the frame top. You'll note a nut there, on the burner tube. You may want to give the nut a shot of lubricant and let it sit for a minute as it can, on occasion, be a real bear to get off. The nut is 5/8" but I have seen more than one that a 5/8" wrench won't fit on...a good old Crescent wrench does the trick. Take your wrench and carefully (so not to round it) loosen the nut. That nut locks the burner tube in place, and the burner tube is also screwed into the "U" tube. Your wrench will loosen one of them...probably the nut. Continue to unscrew this "assembly" until the burner tube comes out of the frame. Set the burner tube (and burner cap & screen) aside.
4. The parts on top of the frame are now free so turn it right-side up. You'll be able to see the ventilator bracket being held on by the "U" tube. Wiggle off the "U" tube and remove the bracket. Inside of the frame you'll now see the venturi. This part pulls right out but may be stuck due to soot; a gentle spin with pliers may be required. The frame is now completely disassembled. Set all the parts aside and go back to the rest of the lantern.
5. Take a 7/16" wrench and remove the generator nut. Place the tip cleaner stem in the "up" position--this will make removal of the generator a bit easier. Unscrew the generator nut and remove it, along with the generator. Set them aside. You should see two washers still setting on the valve assembly...remove them.
6. Remove the frame rest and the valve wheel. Gently lift and push the frame rest forward towards the valve wheel. Without scratching the fount get the front edge past the valve nut and lift it up. It may require a gentle squeeze the sides of the frame rest to get it to this point. Once it has cleared the valve stem then continue to lift but pull it back and off of the tip cleaner stem. It may help if you turn the tip cleaner stem to a horizontal position. Set it aside. Now take a thin flat-tip screwdriver and remove the valve wheel, screw and direction disc and set them aside.
7. Time to remove the valve. You really need to be careful with this step as it is real easy to bend the top of the fount. What you're going to do here is to unscrew the fount from the valve, which may seem rather backwards. Take the fount over to a bench vice and put it in upside-down. You don't need to tighten the jaws down on the valve-just remove all of the slop between the jaws and valve. Now grab the fount firmly with your hands and very gently and very squarely start to unscrew it. You must turn on a perfect axis with the valve or you'll tweak the top of the fount! It will take a bit of pressure at first to free the valve. Once it loosens up, remove it all from the vice and try to unscrew the valve with your hands. If you can't return it to the vice and loosen some more. When the threads are finally free you'll be able to pull the entire valve assembly out of the fount
8. Take the valve assembly and turn it upside down in your hand. With a 5/16" end wrench loosen the Fuel & Air Tube. Unscrew the tube completely and pull it away from the valve. Set the tube, rod and spring aside.
9. Next comes the valve stem. Temporarily install the valve wheel and turn the valve all the way "open" as in a maximum burn position. Once you have it open take a 1/2" end wrench and back the valve nut off. Back the valve and the valve nut all the way off-a little pressure may be required to complete the final pulling of the packing out of the valve so don't be afraid to "open" the valve all the way.
10. When you get the stem out you need to remove the nut. The nut will come off backwards, or, off the end where the valve wheel goes. Many times there is a lot of crud at the end of the valve stem so take a wire brush and some carburetor cleaner and get it off. Once clean the valve nut should come right off. With the valve nut will come the valve stem packing. There is a small brass o-ring at the end of the packing. This ring may come out with the packing or it may stay on the valve stem. Either way, pull it off or out.
11. Last thing to do is pull the few remaining parts of the fount off. Removing the pump is real easy-take off the pump retaining screws or the pump clip. Grab the pump and give it a good pull up to remove from the fount. Often times this plunger's cap is stuck to the fount this old cruddy gas and oil and dirt. So, holding the fount firmly, pull straight out on pretty hard to snap it free. If you do this once or twice and it won't give, which happens, carefully take a screwdriver and using a rag and the fount for leverage pry all around the cap until it comes free. Once you have the pump out you'll see the air stem in the cylinder. Take a pair of pliers and unscrew it from the check valve and pull it out. Set the pump, pump clip/screws and the air stem aside. Take some "break free" spray, or carburetor cleaner, and shoot a couple of squirts down inside the pump plunger cylinder. Let this soak for about 1/2 hour or more before proceeding.
12. Okay, now comes the hardest part, the check valve. If you look down inside of the pump plunger cylinder you'll see the check valve down there. You'll see that the top of it is slotted. The "perfect" screwdriver for this job probably doesn't exist. This would have a blade width of 1/2" and a blade thickness of 5/16". Finding a screwdriver that thick would be real tough. So I recommend you find the thickest one you can. And, if possible, take a file or a grinding wheel to make it 1/2 wide. If the blade is too wide it will hit the sides of the fount and won't go into the check valve slot. Your intent here is to get a good bite in this slot and you may have to modify a screwdriver to achieve it.
13. Once you have a screwdriver that will work you'll need to have someone hold the fount for you. You'll also need to attach either a wrench or vice grips to the screwdriver so you will have some torque. Do not apply any force to the screwdriver until it is perfectly centered in the cylinder! If it is off-center the blade tip will not be square to the bottom of the slot and it will strip it out.
14. With one hand hold the screwdriver handle...apply a real good bit of downward force while making darn sure the handle is centered in the cylinder. Then use the wrench or vice grip to unscrew the check valve. The result will come quickly...it will either "pop" and come loose or it will strip the slot out. All I can say is "good luck" here...
15. Next we're going to disassemble the fuel cap (or filler cap). First thing to do is to make sure it comes off. If you have a lantern than has been sitting for many years the cap may be frozen to the fount. To ensure that the old gasket hasn't connected itself to the fount just take the cap off. Then put it back on and tighten it as much as you can with your fingers. Tightening the cap will lock the insert and gasket down on the fount so you can get the screw out. With a flat-tip screwdriver try and unscrew the center screw. If something seems to be "slipping" it means that the cap is too loose...tighten it some more. If you can't tighten further with your fingers you can gently apply a pair of pliers to get it real tight. When the screw decides to let go you will feel a small "snap." Remove the screw and then take the cap off again. This time, the insert will be left on the fount. It should pull right off with your hand but may need a little help...lightly tap on it to remove if necessary. Set your 3-piece fuel cap aside.
16. Cleaning time! We're going to work over the different parts of the lantern now. The sequence is not really important but we'll start off with a couple of pieces that will take some time to finish.
17. The first step will be the pump plunger assembly. First inspect your pump cup. If the leather is completely inflexible or if it has any cracks that are all the way through leather you'll need to replace it. But this is quite rare; most pump cups are just formed to the cylinder or dried out and still good.
18. Take the pump cup and pull it back. This will open it up like an umbrella. It may take some convincing to stay in this position but it will. Look again for deep cracks in the leather. If none just take the "opened up" pump cup and submerge it in motor oil. It needs to soak at least an hour so just let it sit.
19. Next we'll replace the filler cap insert gasket. If your lantern has a filler cap that does not have a screw in the center, or if you are going to replace your current cap with a new one, you can skip this step and continue on.
20. Earlier we broke the filler cap down to three pieces: the cap, the center screw and the insert. The insert has a small gasket fitted inside that over the years will harden and crack and render itself useless. This is one of the most common problems with old lanterns and with a bad gasket they will not hold pressure.
21. Grab your eye protection, insert, fire extinguisher and propane torch and go outside. Find an appropriate spot to burn the insert on. I use a fire brick but a well-hidden spot on concrete will work. Just a spot where you won't start a fire! The old gasket may spit at you and it will be very hot so ensure you're wearing your eye protection when you do this.
22. Set the insert down on the burning surface with the gasket facing you. Light your torch and start heating up the insert. It is brass so don't worry about the heat damaging it. Apply direct flame to the insert and watch the old gasket move and turn like an old dying snake. Once you see it lift and crack and begin to turn to ash it is probably done. The insert may glow by now and that is okay. Leave this to cool for quite awhile because obviously it got pretty hot. Once you can stand to hold it in your fingers, continue on.
23. The old gasket should be pretty easy to remove now. Use a very thin and sharp tool to remove the crisp remains. I usually us a dental pick for this and it works real well. You have to make sure you get all of the old gasket out. Don't stop until the groove is clean-bottom and both sides. A wire brush will assist you at the end.
24. Putting in the new gasket is fairly easy. When completed it will sit completely flat all the way around. The new rubber has a tendency to want to lift around the edges, or twist. Just work with it and it will finally all sit down flat and tight. Once you're done with this step set the insert aside.
25. Next comes the hardest part of a single mantle lantern: removing the old valve stem packing. If you can, get your valve nut and look closely at it. The inside is threaded-you can see this all the way up to where the end of the packing is. Well, the entire nut is threaded inside. When that packing was installed and tightened down it formed itself to the threads. This makes removal rather difficult.
26. What you have to do is break the old packing into many pieces so you can get it all out. To do this, set the valve stem nut down on your work bench with the larger end up. Take a small-to-medium sized flat-tip screwdriver and place it on the edge of the old packing. Rest the edge of the blade against the threads in the nut. Now take your hand and hit your screwdriver hard and "chisel" down through the old packing. Once you have done this once, and well, turn the nut 180 degrees and do it again, creating a slot in the old packing.
27. You've split your packing into halves now. Spin the nut around 90 degrees and cut it again...and again...breaking the packing into smaller and smaller chunks. You'll see the "dust" from the packing falling out...pretty soon larger pieces will fall until the entire thing is gone.
28. The packing must all be gone from the bottom end of the nut. If you leave any of the old packing here the new one won't seat properly and it may leak. You can take wire brushes and the like down there...it does not have to be perfectly clean but no pieces of the old packing should remain. When it is clean set it aside.
29. Next we're going to take some parts and soak them to remove all the soot and other fun things that adhere to exposed brass. Get yourself an oblong dish of sorts, something deep enough and wide enough to completely submerge all the parts we want to soak. In a Coca Cola or Pepsi bath, soak the burner tube and cap, "U" tube and venturi, generator nut, etc. These pieces are all brass and the soak will clean them pretty well. This is an overnight soak... Now if the bottom of the lantern frame is really cruddy you can put it in a large dish and fill the Coke to a point where it just reaches the upper lip of the frame bottom. But remember that the frame is not brass and it may react differently to the air when it comes out of the bath. That means rusting.
30. Once the brass pieces have soaked they will appear much more like brass. Wash them off with water and then dry them off with a towel. Set them aside as we'll do some more (and faster) cleaning in a little while.
31. On to the fount. There will undoubtedly be some rust inside. If you shake the fount real hard you'll probably hear it. The amount of cleaning depends on the amount of rust inside, obviously. Hold the fount upside-down and shake it, allowing the rust flakes to come out the valve hole and the filler hole. Shake and shake and shake until there is nothing left to make noise inside. If there is a whole bunch of rust inside, as in a complete layer of it, you can put some shotgun BBs in there to loosen it all up. Keep in mind that more rust means less metal and too much rust will render the fount unsafe to use.
32. Look at the filler cap hole. There is probably some rust and corrosion on top of it and around the inside where you can see. Shoot it with carburetor cleaner and go after the rust with a rifle bore brush or wire brush. A light scratching with a flathead screwdriver may be required. Be careful not to scratch the paint or nickel around the hole. Some of the rust will fall inside the fount-just shake it out again.
33. Once you have all the rust that you can hear out, time to blow it out and wash it. If you have compressed air, insert your nozzle into the filler hole and point the valve hole away from everything. Blowing into it like this will give you a thick stream of rust-dust. After doing this, or if you don't have a compressor handy, fill the fount about 1/4 way with clean gasoline. Cover the filler hole and valve hole and shake the fount real well. Pour out the gasoline into your "bad gas" container. Repeat this step over and over until the gas you pour out is clear. Don't snitch on this step...your lantern doesn't like rust being pulled up into the fuel & air tube.
34. If you have a nickel plated fount there are a myriad of hand-buffing pastes and liquids out there for you to use. I have tried BrassO and silver polish-they seem to work okay, none significantly better than the other. The amount of time you spend on a nickel fount is proportional to the shine you want. We can treat a painted fount just like an old car, one that has been sitting in the sun for 30 or so years.
35. After many combinations and cleanings I have come up with what I think works best for founts: a good cleaner (I LOVE Simple Green) and rubbing compound. First spray the entire fount (bottom too!) with cleaner but shy away from the three holes in the fount. Let it sit for a moment to loosen the heavy build-up that may be on the very top If the fount has a lot of loose dirt on it, wipe it down now and re-spray with cleaner.
36. Now spray some cleaner into your dish of rubbing compound. Rubbing compound can be really abrasive, which is good, but we'd like it to be a little less so and the puddle of cleaner in it does the trick. Now you clean the fount just like you'd wax your car. The cleaner/compound mixture will remove most of the black spots and residues and such. If you rub too hard or too long in one spot it will also remove paint so be careful. You'll note that your rag starts to take on the color of the fount. This is the oxidized paint coming clean. The area around the filler hole and the plunger cylinder are hard to get to so take a stiff tooth brush after them.
37. While the compound is covering the fount we'll take the time to clean out the plunger cylinder. I use carburetor cleaner for this--do NOT use brake cleaner! Spray some carb cleaner down in the cylinder and try to get the sides where the corrosion has built up. Take a rifle bore brush or a small wire brush and clean the sides of the cylinder. Once you've done this turn the fount upside down to drain the spray. Then, with the fount still upside down, spray the cleaner up into the cylinder to remove all the grit from the check valve hole. When the liquid pouring out is clear feel the inside of the cylinder-it should be smooth. Repeat as necessary to remove that dirt build-up.
38. Now go after your fount again, this time with a soft cotton rag. If the compound has hardened and is really hard to get off you can give it a light shot of cleaner to assist you. Use a new toothbrush for those two areas. When you have it all off you should have a very clean and much brighter fount. Set it aside.
39. The last part that will require a real thorough cleaning is the fuel and air tube. The F&A tube spends its life in the fount and often times in bad gasoline. Depending on how bad, and how long, the tube will grow a hard shell of corrosion around it and at the bottom. Most of the time the F&A tube can be cleaned rather than replaced.
40. First you need to go after the outside of the tube with some steel wool. Take care not to bend the soft brass tube but rub the entire outside to remove all corrosion and to give the brass a soft shine. Make sure you get the very bottom of the tube also.
41. Now you need to clean the inside of the tube. You can use carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner for this. Hold the tube in one hand and spray your cleaner down into the large end. Spray enough so that the other end of the tube (the small hole) gets damp from the liquid. Let it sit for a few seconds. Now grab the F&A rod with your other hand and insert it into the bottom of the tube. What we're doing here is plunging out the small bottom hole of the tube with the rod which is a perfect fit. Make sure you don't bend the rod and plunge the hole numerous times to ensure any corrosion built up around the inside base of the tube is broken free. Remove the rod and spray some more cleaner into the large end. If you have an air compressor, blow air into the little end to remove the cleaner and all the pieces of corrosion. If you don't, shake the tube violently with the large end down to remove as much cleaner as you can then let dry. Wipe off the little end with a clean rag and then blow out from (the little end) with your lips.
42. The F&A tube rod is soft brass so exercise extreme care here not to bend and destroy it. You may note a bit of build-up at the end of the rod. With steel wool, carefully remove it. Get the rod to a soft shine and then wipe it off with a clean rag to remove all dirt and steel wool particles. Now grab the spring. Over the years, sitting in a compressed position, the spring will lose length and won't be able to apply sufficient force to lift the rod up out of the tube. Gently pull the ends of the spring to extend it. It will only be about 1/2" long-pull just enough so there is a slightly noticeable length gain. Now put the spring onto the rod (over the small end) and then place the rod & spring back into the tube. By pushing down on the rod's large end with your finger it should go down without bind and the spring should push it back up without bind. Set it aside.
43. To clean the remaining metal pieces of the lantern you can use a steel brush and steel wool. The brass parts you have left un-cleaned like the valve, valve stem and frame parts may have a black "gook" on them. Remove this with the brush and then shine with the wool. Take the steel wool after the frame and it will come out nice too. The frame rest can be cleaned and shined with 0000 steel wool or a metal polish.
44. The direction disc can be a problem. The direction disk is the silver disk that is on the valve wheel and says "Open 1/4 Turn..." Any aggressive cleaning on the disc will remove the writing so we need to be gentle with it. Hold it in your hand with the lettering up and spray it real good with a cleaner like Simple Green. Let it sit for a few minutes and keep it damp. Then use a finger tip as the abrasive and gently rub the dirt off. If you get crazy here the lettering will come off. If some of the dirt is too hard to remove let it alone. Better to have a dark spot then to lose all the lettering around it. Clean the back side in a similar manner and then pat dry with a soft cloth. Shoot some cleaner on the valve wheel and clean it with a tooth brush and wipe clean. Set them aside.
45. If the brass pieces ("U" tube, burner tube, cap & screen, etc.) you have soaking in Coke or Pepsi have been there long enough, go wash them off real well with water and dry them. Next we need to clean the frame-inside and out. The lower edge on most frames is plated so take a good cleaner after it. Most of the frame will come out nice with a combination of cleaners, brushes and steel wool.
46. The inside of the frame's air intake tube will be clogged with spider webs and dirt clods 90% of the time. Take a flexible rifle bore brush and give the tip a little bit of a bend. This is so the brush will fit up into the crook in the air tube. Then take the brush and work from the bottom up, through the bend, and clean it out real well. Then take the brush and go in from the top and do the same. Blow it all out with compressed air, or blow into it hard. When you do this place your finger over the generator hole in the air tube so all remaining dirt and dust exits a bigger hole.
47. The last pieces are the glass and the ventilator. Use warm soap and water for both. Your lantern is now cleaned and ready for re-assembly. It should all be out in front of you and clean, except for the pump plunger which is still soaking in oil.
48. Alright, time to get the lantern running again. First thing we need to do is to get the valve all back together so we can install it in the fount and do some pressure testing. Get the valve stem, the brass o-ring, the valve stem nut and your new packing.
49. The first piece that will go on the valve stem is that brass o-ring. If you look at it carefully you'll note that one side is flat and the other is concave. The concave side goes on first as it fits up against that snap-ring on the stem. Following the o-ring is your new packing, and then the valve stem nut.
50. Now take your completed valve stem and insert the conical tip into the valve housing. With your valve wheel, screw it in until it stops in the "off" position. Then take your 1/2" end wrench and tighten on the valve stem nut about 2 turns. We're going to snug it up later to stop leaks so 2 turns is sufficient. Next grab your fuel & air tube along with its spring and rod. Place the spring over the thin end of the rod and then place the rod down inside the tube at the big end. With your thumb make sure the rod springs up and down inside the tube without binding. Then screw the tube into the bottom of the valve and snug it up with your 5/16" wrench.
51. Time to re-install the valve into the fount. Place the fuel & air tube down inside the fount's top hole and seat it. Spin the valve around carefully so that it does not cross-thread into the fount. Hand-tighten the valve in as much as you can with reasonable pressure. This point should occur just before the valve stem gets to the point where it will ultimately set. If you're unable to get the valve stem to a point halfway between the filler hole and the pump cylinder with your bare hand (you probably won't) then you'll need to return to the bench vise.
52. You'll need to really be careful this time...it is much easier to bend the fount installing a valve than it was to remove it. Like before, snuggle up to the fount and use both hands. Making darn sure your torque is on a perfect axis with the valve start applying pressure to screw the fount down on the valve. Only turn the fount about 15-20 degrees at a time and then re-position your body and hands so you don't go awry on the angle. When it is close pull it out and look at it at eye-level. The valve stem should be either right over the decal or centered with the filler hole on the left and the pump cylinder on the right, whichever looks best (usually they are the same). If you bent the fount, don't sweat too much. Using the vice again apply pressure to the fount opposite of the direction of the bend. It will straighten out for you.
53. Get your new check valve & stem and the fuel cap pieces. Take the air stem out of the check valve. Turn the fount on its side so the plunger hole is facing up. Drop the check valve down into the cylinder and shake it a bit so it sits correctly at the bottom. Take your large flathead screwdriver and tighten the check valve down. Get it snug and then just a bit more. Someday you may need to remove it again so don't go nuts! Once the check valve is in screw in the air stem, just enough where it will stay in place for you.
54. Now get your fuel cap pieces. If you decided to use a "new" style fuel cap you can skip this. Take the insert with the new gasket and rest it on the fount's filler hole. Now take the cap and screw it down, just to a point where it barely gets snug. Then take the center screw and install it with your fingers...it should go in a couple of turns easily. Now tighten the cap down real good and take a screwdriver to the center screw to snug it down.
55. Now take your pump plunger out of your bowl of motor oil. Get a rag and wipe off the excess oil from the pump cup end. If the upper end of the plunger (the part you'll be able to see on the fount) is dirty take some carburetor cleaner and a stiff brush to clean these parts off. The inside of the plunger cap may have a bunch of dirt in it too and a Q-tip works well to remove it. With compressed air, or with your lips, blow through the plunger from the top. This will get the excess oil out of the hollow plunger stem. We do not want this oil there as it will get into the check valve and goof things up. Now return the pump cup to its regular shape-you'll note it is a litter bigger in diameter now. Approaching it from the side, slip it into the cylinder and over the air stem. Use a fingernail if you need to when installing the pump cup back into the fount as it may want to fold on you.
57. Push the pump plunger down into cylinder a bit. Now you need to set the cap down onto the fount. When you do this ensure you have the holes lined up and that the oil hole is facing up. If it goes on but a little crooked you can either take it off and start over or gently grab it with pliers and twist. You may have to tap on it to get it to snug down completely. Now re-install your screws or the pump clip. It will be a tight fit and a screwdriver or pliers will make it easier. Ensure both sides of the clip are securely inside the holes of the cap and the fount. Now test it...ensure it gives you some resistance. If it does then lock your air stem down (fully clockwise).
58. Time to test the valve and set the final pressure on the new valve stem packing. This part is pretty easy. Fill the fount about 1/4 full of clean fuel. Tighten the filler cap and then unlock the pump plunger. Pump it 3-5 strokes, slowly. You will probably see fuel seeping from the end of the valve stem nut. Tighten the nut (1/2" wrench) until it stops. Dry off the leaked fuel and then give it another 5 pumps. Repeat these steps until you can fully pressurize (50+ pumps) and no fuel leaks from the valve stem nut. Once you're there place a rag over the valve's top hole and slide the valve stem wheel on. Open the valve about 1/2 turn to ensure you have fuel coming out (you'll hear it) and that the valve stem turns easily. Passing both steps, shut the valve off again and completely dry all around and over the valve. Pump more if you like now...but "inspect" your valve for 20 minutes or so just to make sure there are no leaks.
59. Okay, now get the frame rest and re-install it over the valve and onto the fount. Place the tip cleaner stem in a horizontal position and insert it into the hole in the frame rest. Squeeze if you have to, but push the rest forward and install it over the valve stem, then set it down on the fount. Take your two washers and set them down on the two "posts" on the valve.
60. Now get your generator nut and the new generator-is time to install them. Slide the generator nut over the small end of the generator. At the other end, gently pull out the stem so you can get it in your fingers. On the lantern, turn the tip cleaner stem to the "up" position so the eccentric block's small hole is exposed. Insert the end of the generator stem into the hole and turn the tip cleaner stem down. This will lock the stem into the hole during the rest of the install process.
61. Now carefully set the generator housing down on the valve (DO NOT FORCE IT!) and the set the generator nut down. Tighten with your fingers and ensure your generator is straight up and down. Snug the generator nut down real well with your 7/16" wrench. Set the fount aside; next we have to put the frame back together.
62. Set your frame down in front of you and grab the "U" tube, the venturi and the ventilator bracket. First, take the venturi and place it in the off-set hole in the frame top, small end first (it won't fit the other way). Then take the ventilator bracket and place it over the center hole in the frame top. With these two pieces in place we can put on the "U" tube. Get your "U" tube and look at it...one end has threads while the other does not. The threaded end goes to the center hole for the burner tube to screw into.
63. Navigate the "U" tube over the venturi and under/around the ventilator bracket. Hold the "U" tube gently in place and grab your burner tube. From underneath, insert the threaded end of the burner tube up into the "U" tube and screw it in. Hand-tighten until it gets snug.
64. Ensure the ventilator bracket is in-line with the "U" tube. Once you have the bracket positioned like this take your 5/8" wrench and tighten up the nut on the burner tube to secure the entire assembly. The frame is now ready to be placed on the valve and frame rest.
65. Now you can take your frame and set it on the lantern. Insert the tip of the generator in the smaller of the two holes in the bottom of the frame. Once you get the frame lowered to a point where it almost meets the frame rest and valve, look at the tip of the generator. It has to go into that small hole in the air intake tube and you'll need to guide it in. The frame should sit down nice and square on the valve's washers and the frame rest. Now look at the front of the frame rest and ensure the valve stem is centered in the hole and slot for it. Also look at the hole around the generator. Take your frame nut or Pal Nut and screw it onto the center post.
66. Tighten with a 7/16" wrench but ensure the frame hole for the generator is centered and the frame rest is centered on the valve stem. Take your valve wheel now and insert it onto the valve stem. Take the direction disc and screw and insert them too. Spin the direction disc until it is in the correct "off" position and then tighten the screw down. You'll need to hold the direction disc in place with your finger or thumb as it will want to be turned by the screw. Once it is tight and the wheel is no longer sloppy on the stem it is time for another test.
67. You should still have plenty of pressure in the lantern and your tip cleaner stem should be facing down. Go ahead and crack the valve open about 1/2 turn and listen. At first you should just hear air coming out of the burner tube. But within a few seconds it should start "spitting" at you. When it does, shut of the valve. Congratulations, you have fuel coming out of the fount and being ejected out the top of the generator.
68. Now you can install your mantle and burn it. When they're cooled a bit and ashen fire it up! Remember that "Open 1/4 turn to light" is too much so just open the valve enough to where you can hear the spitting and then light it. It is quite possible that you'll have a little dirt or something in the lines so go ahead and spin your tip cleaner handle a few times to clean the tip of the generator. The lantern should calm right down and burn "okay." Once the burn is steady your generator is sufficiently hot and you can open the valve all the way up.
69. Now put your globe in and install the ventilator. Snug down the ball nut so it just hits the ventilator...never tighter. That is how the hole in the top gets enlarged as the ventilator expands when it gets hot and it cracks the enamel.